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Over the past year or so there has been a new product emerge in the RV Refrigeration market. The Freon cooling unit replacement for a Norcold 1200 / 1210 refrigerator made by JC Refrigeration. These units fit directly into the same mounting space as the original ammonia cooling unit and use the existing electronics to control it. Thereby transforming your existing RV refrigerator into a Freon based system seen in most residential (home) units. These upgraded units are approximately the same cost as replacing the Ammonia based unit originally installed on the fridge. So if you are in the situation where you need a cooling unit replacement, but are considering installing a residential unit I

As Mungo Jerry says “I don’t know why, but this feels like summertime” With the temperatures about to hit the ceiling there will very likely be some realizations in your near future about the RV refrigerators out there. Those realizations will be that your fridge that seemed to work pretty good in the fall and winter won’t quite make it as the temperature rises. This is because, like all refrigeration, the temperature inside the fridge is based on the temperature outside. A perfectly running ammonia absorption refrigerator will keep a food safe temperature up to approximately 100 degrees Fahrenheit. As those temperatures spike and the increase in humidity hinders the evaporative process even the best

Every refrigerator has a drain line to allow condensation and defrosting deposits to be funneled out of the food storage area to the outside of the coach or camper. We all know that these drain lines need to empty out of the coach or into a drain pan of some kind so that the water doesn’t rot out the platform and wall underneath and behind the refrigerator. However, there is a little known fact about these drain tubes that you should be aware of. There is typically a stopper or cap installed at the end of these drain lines and many times the owners remove them to allow more water to flow out of the

Do you have ice build-up on the top of your refrigerator or cooling fins? You have a condensation problem! The biggest culprit of condensation is an air gap at the door gaskets. Check your gaskets for any obvious tears or cracks, if you are unable to see the problem with the eye. Take a piece of paper and close it in the door gasket. when you try to remove it you should feel resistance but be able to slide the paper easily. Slide the dollar bill all around the door, if at any point the paper moves between the gaskets without decent resistance you have an air gap. For some models you can simply adjust the door or replace the

We often get calls from customers about why their refrigerator won’t turn on even though it’s got 120 Volts at the plug, so I feel like a quick explanation of the electronics and electricity required would benefit everyone. There are three main systems in a standard ammonia refrigerator used by the RV and Boat industry. The control board system, the electric heating system, and the propane system. Each of these systems is powered differently. To fully operate the refrigerator in any mode all three systems must be in good working order. Each system and it’s primary criteria for correct operation are explained below. Control Board System: This system consists of the front panel controls as